Sewing: Difference between revisions

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(→‎The industrial straight stitch Juki sewing machine: Added application directly from the Juki manual. Please dont shoot the messenger.)
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Sewing Machines. We has them.
= Sewing Machines  


For both industrial machines, please DO NOT unthread them unless you must, to fix a snarl.  Instead, to remove (say) your own thread, simply cut it close to the spool so that the next person can simply tie a knot with the next thread and pull it all the way through to the needle.
== Tips ==


Needles for these machines are <b><span style="color:red">NOT</span></b> sold at most fabric stores.  Both kinds take the same type of needle, luckilyThe closest place to get them is at Apparel City, on Howard between 11th & 12th.  Tell them you want needles for a Juki DDL 5550 and they'll give you the right kind.  Needles come in sizes; size 10, 12, 14, 16 are good for most purposes.  The higher numbers are heavier gauge needles suitable for thicker fabrics.  Leather needles have a tiny blade at the tip; they aren't absolutely necessary for sewing on leather but they make it easier, especially for many layers.  Don't use a leather needle for other fabrics, though, it will cut the threads rather than squeezing between them, leaving holes that may start rips.
Wednesday nights at Noisebridge is when the communty gets together to give classesI would like to attend and hopefully other crafters too and we can see what organically grows from it.


If you've never operated a sewing machine before, ask some people at Noisebridge such as Rachel, Rachel, Crutcher, Alex, Ariel. Or do some research online. You are very unlikely to damage the machines by simply messing around with them, but they are not completely self-explanatory and this page does assume a certain amount of prior general knowledge.  A good time to get help is Wednesday evenings, when [[SCoW]] meets.
Sewing machines currently at noisebridge...edited by Maria on June 30, 2015


If a sewing machine is actually broken and non functional, as opposed to just you can't figure out how to make it work, please call Billy from Apparel City at 415-816-8645 (mobile) and schedule an appointment for him to come fix itHe usually charges around $80 per hour, plus partsEmail the [https://www.noisebridge.net/mailman/listinfo/sewing/|sewing list] and people will chip in to cover thisIf you can't manage this process, email the sewing list and find someone else who canAlso, please put a note on the machine so people know what is going on with it.
Pfaff 2022.  This machine is in working order.  I purchased it from the original owner recently. It was never used.  This machine has IDT which is a fancy way to say dual feed.  If you have any questions on using the machine you can text or call me @ 415-850-3704My name is Maria and I live about in the Mission, close by. This Pfaff machine is a good machineIt does many different stitchesHowever, you have to adjust the machine and the pressure foot to execute them properly.   


== The industrial straight stitch Juki sewing machine DDL-5550-6 ==
Brother machine works as well.


Current Status: '''This machine is not currently working.''' ''The needle thread guides are being ordered and replaced.''
Walkingfoot is working.


Application: General fabrics, light-weight materials and medium weight materials. '''Not for leather or book binding.''' Sorry, please use the right tool for the job.
Single needle juke has a few issues that need to be fixed.


This machine does only straight stitches, no zig-zag (and no button holes).  It can go very fast. It has an automatic thread cutter which is triggered by pushing down on the treadle with your heel, the opposite from how you push to have it make stitches.  There's a set of buttons on a widget atop the machine which control automated backstitching.  If the top light is lit, the machine will do a backstitch when you start a seam.  If the bottom light is lit, it will do a backstitch prior to cutting the thread, when you push back on the treadlePush the associated button to toggle the backstitching.  If this isn't clear yet, take some scrap fabric and play around with it until it makes sense.  There's scrap fabric in the wheeled canvas bins under the table by the window.
The overlock also a juke is has issues and needs to be fixed.   


Bobbins are kept in the drawer under the left side of the machine's table.  Also in that drawer are thread snips, replacement needles, and a little screwdriver to change the needle with.  Note that the needle faces to the left, instead of to the front, as on most home sewing machines.  If you replace a broken needle and put it in facing forwards, nothing will break but the machine will not form stitches.
We are working hard to make the space a functional and pleasent space to create.


To wind a bobbin, place the empty bobbin on the horizontal spindle to the right of the machine body (near the hand wheel).  Run a second thread through the upper holder, down to the tensioner at the back of the right side of the machine, in line with the spindle.  Thread the end through one of the holes in the bobbin side, from the inside to the outside.  Press the lever to push the spindle down in contact with the sewing machine belt.  While holding the thread end so it doesn't just whip out of the bobbin, press the treadle to run a couple of inches (if there were fabric in the machine).  Soon enough you can let go of the thread end as it will have been caught by windings on top of it.  If you are doing a lot of sewing, you can start a new bobbin before the current one is empty, and let it wind up as you sew.  When the bobbin is full, the lever will automatically snap out away from the belt and stop winding thread.
= Sewing Work Area =


The top speed of the machine can be adjusted using one of the knobs on a box under the table, next to the motor.  It is the second knob down.  Right is faster, left is slower.  Feel free to adjust this -- use a scrap piece of fabric to determine a good top speed for your skill level and project needs.
== 2015 Upgrade ==
As a spinoff of the [[Maker Faire 2015|Noisebridge Booth for Maker Fair 2015 project]] the sewing area is going to be upgraded. Recently people have started maintaining and using the sewing area regularly again. The casework being built for Maker Faire 2015 will actually be designed for the sewing area so that after the show it may form the basis of the sewing area upgrade project.


I have started collecting inspiration images that will be used to design the cabinets and new sewing area. This project is currently in the conceptual design phase, so if you have ideas please add them here. Not pictured are ideas for storage of donated materials and fabrics. I think there should also be some clothes rods for hanging up projects and materials. Maybe a trip to a fabric store(s) could help with storage.
==== Official Manual for the Juki Sewing Machine DDL-5550-6 ====
PDF - Manual for the Juki Sewing Machine DDL-5550-6 -- https://noisebridge.net/wiki/File:Juki-ddl-5550-6.pdf
Tribal Knowledge Juki Sewing Machine


Full manual: [[Media:Juki-ddl-5550-6.pdf]]
The term 'industrial sewing machine' does not mean that it can poke a hole through anything.
*  It can go very fast. It has an automatic thread cutter which is triggered by pushing down on the treadle with your heel, the opposite from how you push to have it make stitches.  There's a set of buttons on a widget atop the machine which control automated backstitching.  If the top light is lit, the machine will do a backstitch when you start a seam.  If the bottom light is lit, it will do a backstitch prior to cutting the thread, when you push back on the treadle.  Push the associated button to toggle the backstitching.  If this isn't clear yet, take some scrap fabric and play around with it until it makes sense.  Note that the needle faces to the left, instead of to the front, as on most home sewing machines.  If you replace a broken needle and put it in facing forwards, nothing will break but the machine will not form stitches.


[[Juki Maintenance Notes]] - Replacing the counter knife, needle bar, thread guides, etc.
** To wind a bobbin, place the empty bobbin on the horizontal spindle to the right of the machine body (near the hand wheel).  Run a second thread through the upper holder, down to the tensioner at the back of the right side of the machine, in line with the spindle.  Thread the end through one of the holes in the bobbin side, from the inside to the outside.  Press the lever to push the spindle down in contact with the sewing machine belt.  While holding the thread end so it doesn't just whip out of the bobbin, press the treadle to run a couple of inches (if there were fabric in the machine).  Soon enough you can let go of the thread end as it will have been caught by windings on top of it.  If you are doing a lot of sewing, you can start a new bobbin before the current one is empty, and let it wind up as you sew.  When the bobbin is full, the lever will automatically snap out away from the belt and stop winding thread.


The top speed of the machine can be adjusted using one of the knobs on a box under the table, next to the motor.  It is the second knob down.  Right is faster, left is slower.  Feel free to adjust this -- use a scrap piece of fabric to determine a good top speed for your skill level and project needs.


Recommended reading:


[http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/3751/machine-needle-know-how About sewing machine needles]
Full manual: [[Media:Juki-ddl-5550-6.pdf]]
 
[http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/6847/perfect-machine-tension-every-time Understanding thread tension]
 
[http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25126&st=0 Sew heavy material]
 
[http://www.wipo.int/pctdb/en/wo.jsp?WO=2002000984&IA=US2001041173&DISPLAY=STATUS What is a thread wiper?]
 
== The industrial Juki serger ==
This machine does three kinds of stitches: a three-thread overlock, a chainstitch/overlock combination, or a four-thread overlock.  Normally it is set up to do the three-thread overlock, which only requires one needle, and doesn't use the rear thread trace or the second upper thread trace.  This machine has a knife placed to cut the fabric as you sew, and it *is possible* to cut your finger badly on this knife if you are not careful.  The location of the knife is pointed out in bright orange nail polish on the machine.  BE CAREFUL.  This machine also can go extremely, sometimes startlingly, fast.
 
Thread tension is controlled by the knobs on the right front of the machine.  Mostly they're adjusted properly, and for most uses of serging the tension is not critical.  If the serged stitching is really wonky, though, try messing with the tension dials - be sure the thread is caught properly between the tension plates, as it occasionally gets into the springs instead.
 
DO NOT UNTHREAD THE SERGER.  If you want different colored thread, simply cut off the current threads near the cone spools, and tie on a new thread.  Then either pull the threads through from the needle area (this can be difficult as they are somewhat knotted and you'll have to pull one out through the guts of the machine), or serge for a few inches on some scrap until the new color is pulled through.  You may or may not find that the knot catches on the hole in the needle.  If it does, just cut it, rethread the needle, pull 6 or 8 inches of thread through, and keep serging for a bit.
 
If a thread breaks and forms a tangle, or breaks somewhere in the middle of the threading, you can find a map of how to rethread it on the inside of a little door that opens up just to the right of the knife.  It opens downwards and lets you get at the levers and such of the thread traces.  Each thread trace is drawn in a different color, however note that the tension dials are of mismatched colors, so follow the guide not the tension dial coloring.
 
If you have to replace the needle, the notch in the needle faces backwards and it threads front to back.
 
Full manual: [[Media:JukiMO240424142416.pdf]]
 
== The portable Necchi ==
This was the only one of our functional sewing machines that can make buttonholes. Unfortunately, it is not working properly at this time.
[http://www.instructables.com/id/Noisebridge-Sewing-Machine/ Instructions for the smaller Necchi sewing machine.]


[[Category:Pages with a Noisebridge Tiny URL]]
[[Juki Maintenance Notes]] - Replacing the counter knife, needle bar, thread guides,

Revision as of 01:23, 1 July 2015

= Sewing Machines

Tips

Wednesday nights at Noisebridge is when the communty gets together to give classes. I would like to attend and hopefully other crafters too and we can see what organically grows from it.

Sewing machines currently at noisebridge...edited by Maria on June 30, 2015

Pfaff 2022. This machine is in working order. I purchased it from the original owner recently. It was never used. This machine has IDT which is a fancy way to say dual feed. If you have any questions on using the machine you can text or call me @ 415-850-3704. My name is Maria and I live about in the Mission, close by. This Pfaff machine is a good machine. It does many different stitches. However, you have to adjust the machine and the pressure foot to execute them properly.

Brother machine works as well.

Walkingfoot is working.

Single needle juke has a few issues that need to be fixed.

The overlock also a juke is has issues and needs to be fixed.

We are working hard to make the space a functional and pleasent space to create.

Sewing Work Area

2015 Upgrade

As a spinoff of the Noisebridge Booth for Maker Fair 2015 project the sewing area is going to be upgraded. Recently people have started maintaining and using the sewing area regularly again. The casework being built for Maker Faire 2015 will actually be designed for the sewing area so that after the show it may form the basis of the sewing area upgrade project.

I have started collecting inspiration images that will be used to design the cabinets and new sewing area. This project is currently in the conceptual design phase, so if you have ideas please add them here. Not pictured are ideas for storage of donated materials and fabrics. I think there should also be some clothes rods for hanging up projects and materials. Maybe a trip to a fabric store(s) could help with storage.

Official Manual for the Juki Sewing Machine DDL-5550-6

PDF - Manual for the Juki Sewing Machine DDL-5550-6 -- https://noisebridge.net/wiki/File:Juki-ddl-5550-6.pdf Tribal Knowledge Juki Sewing Machine

The term 'industrial sewing machine' does not mean that it can poke a hole through anything.

  • It can go very fast. It has an automatic thread cutter which is triggered by pushing down on the treadle with your heel, the opposite from how you push to have it make stitches. There's a set of buttons on a widget atop the machine which control automated backstitching. If the top light is lit, the machine will do a backstitch when you start a seam. If the bottom light is lit, it will do a backstitch prior to cutting the thread, when you push back on the treadle. Push the associated button to toggle the backstitching. If this isn't clear yet, take some scrap fabric and play around with it until it makes sense. Note that the needle faces to the left, instead of to the front, as on most home sewing machines. If you replace a broken needle and put it in facing forwards, nothing will break but the machine will not form stitches.
    • To wind a bobbin, place the empty bobbin on the horizontal spindle to the right of the machine body (near the hand wheel). Run a second thread through the upper holder, down to the tensioner at the back of the right side of the machine, in line with the spindle. Thread the end through one of the holes in the bobbin side, from the inside to the outside. Press the lever to push the spindle down in contact with the sewing machine belt. While holding the thread end so it doesn't just whip out of the bobbin, press the treadle to run a couple of inches (if there were fabric in the machine). Soon enough you can let go of the thread end as it will have been caught by windings on top of it. If you are doing a lot of sewing, you can start a new bobbin before the current one is empty, and let it wind up as you sew. When the bobbin is full, the lever will automatically snap out away from the belt and stop winding thread.

The top speed of the machine can be adjusted using one of the knobs on a box under the table, next to the motor. It is the second knob down. Right is faster, left is slower. Feel free to adjust this -- use a scrap piece of fabric to determine a good top speed for your skill level and project needs.


Full manual: Media:Juki-ddl-5550-6.pdf

Juki Maintenance Notes - Replacing the counter knife, needle bar, thread guides,