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=HOW TO BE EXCELLENT BY NOT BREAKING THE MACHINES= We have home machines and industrial machines, and the home machines are all, to varying degrees, much more breakable. They're consumer products, often designed and built with a modern “what is this ‘repair’ of which you speak?” mindset, not built to withstand abuse or rough handling. To that end, here are some strong guidelines for how to Be Excellent and use the home sewing machines in ways that don't break them: # '''First, always be gentle.''' Treat the machine like a puppy. It will bite you, die, or incur a huge bill if you damage it. # '''Do not pull fabric through the machine.''' Let the feed dogs do the work, or drop them if you want to free-sew or embroider. Pulling work through the machine is a good way to bend or break the needle, damage the bobbin and/or bobbin case and/or shuttle, pull the shuttle out of phase, or otherwise damage something. You're lucky if it's the needle or bobbin; those are replaceable. Anything else takes the machine out of commission. #* If fabric isn't feeding properly, you may need to adjust the presser foot pressure. See point #4. # '''Always turn the handwheel the correct direction''' On most of our machines, this is '''towards you'''. If you can't remember, press lightly on the pedal and you'll be able to feel which way the handwheel wants to turn. Turning the handwheel the wrong way won't necessarily break the machine, but it can mess up your stitch, break your thread, or cause a snarl that can break the needle. # '''Change the machine's configuration as you need, but put it back when you're done.''' Every machine should have a standard presser foot and a “universal” needle (size 90/14) loaded when not in use. It should be on the default settings for presser foot pressure and tension. Anyone who needs something different should make whatever changes they need, '''and''' change them back before they put the machine away/leave. # '''Put the machine away when you're done/before leaving.''' The cutting table is not a machine storage rack. # '''Keep the machine's parts with the machine.''' Some machines have a storage compartment on the front of the bed (the bottom portion of the machine where the bobbin is). The domestic machines have a kit for holding bobbins, feet, needles, spool caps, screwdrivers, and anything else necessary to using the machine. The pedal should be kept with the machine at all times, and should have a paper tag tied to it identifying which machine it belongs to. (Such tags are kept in a drawer in the sewing area.) # '''Use the correct needle, and change the needle when needed.''' Always check which needle is loaded into the machine before you start sewing—make sure it's right for the type (woven vs. knit vs. solid) of fabric, the tightness of weave/knit, and the weight of the fabric. #* Non-woven materials such as leather or vinyl require special “leather” needles, made to pierce solid objects. Knitted fabrics, including T-shirt fabric, require “ball point” needles, which are less likely to pierce/cut a yarn. Tight weaves such as microsuede may require “microtex” or “sharp” needles that can find their way between the yarns. Denim and heavy canvas may require “denim” (a.k.a. “jeans”) needles. Most normal woven fabrics will work with a “universal” needle. #* If you're using the right kind of needle but it isn't going through/is skipping stitches or is stitching irregularly or with difficulty, try a heavier diameter or (if woven) a denim needle. Most likely the needle is not able to cleanly penetrate the fabric. Continuing to sew in this state is a good way to permanently bend (i.e., ruin) or break the needle. #* Needles wear out! They are a consumable. If you're pretty sure you have the right kind and diameter of needle, change it out for another like one. If that works better, safely dispose of the worn needle—don't put it back for some other sucker to try. # '''Avoid computerized machines unless you ''really'' need them.''' Computerized machines are much more delicate than mechanical machines. The best reason to use a computerized machine is it's the one with embroidery features and you need that. Otherwise, take a mechanical one such as the Kenmore 385 if it's available—they hold up better. # '''Use the correct type of bobbin for the machine you're using.''' Bobbins come in a variety of types, including Class 15, Class 15J, Class 66, and numerous oddballs. This page lists the correct type of bobbin for each machine, and the same information should soon be stickered onto all of our machines. Any machine, otherwise working, may fail to sew correctly (skipped stitches, shuttle snarls, etc.) with the wrong kind of bobbin in it. # '''Do not use a damaged or broken bobbin.''' If it's cracked, chipped, or bent, don't use it. Transfer the thread (if any) to a new bobbin of the same type (or of the type for the machine you're going to use), then chuck the busted bobbin in the trash.
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